Features
Tuesday, 02 February 2010 04:02
Written by Jade Bremner & Hailey Meng
In time for a new Chinese decade, our retro and vintage cover story harks back to some of the most prominent designs from (and heavily inspired by) past decades. The next several pages are a visual journey which crosses Art Deco with the Postmodern and beyond. We’ve trailed the city to find the most iconic places and items from East and West that have stood the test of time, but best of all: you can still visit and buy them here in Shanghai.
LINKS: RETRO SHANGHAI
WEAR / EAT / PLAY / RELAX / PEACE HOTEL
CLOTHING
Nengmao Store96 Block 39, Shanxi Nan Lu, by Xinle Lu (139 1626 7741)
NENGMAO STORE
An awesomely Chinese retro store which has 70s zip-up tracky tops for RMB298, 70s record bags for RMB380 and lots of kitsch paraphernalia such as toddlers’ tricycles, welding goggles and tea flasks. Worth popping by for the wild decor alone.
96 Block 39, Shanxi Nan Lu, by Xinle Lu (139 1626 7741)
CASIO WATCHES
Back in the 80s these watches were badass. Actually, they’re still badass. The miniature calculator costs RMB145 while the immortal square silver model clocks in at RMB110
Call stockist Jaicee on 133 9135 5381 to get one
STREETLIFE
It’s the only life we know. The enormous worldwide brand is now known for its urban wear harking back to 70s and 80s style, and, boy, do they do it well. We came across this brightly-colored padded jacket for RMB1,200 and Stan Smith Trefoil sneakers for RMB820
Source, 158 Xinle Lu
OU MEI FENGQING GUAN
This stylish stall in Anxi secondhand market has an assortment of items including jewelry, lighters, an antique organ and unusual 70s Japanese cigarette cases. Shop owner Juan Mao has been collecting it all for over 20 years. “Some customers worship this stuff, items come from all over the world, much from Russia, but people go crazy for European and American designs.”
Stall 218, Anxi Market, 1355 Kuaixuan Lu
ROUTE 66
Mr. Gu has always had a soft spot for hard rock music and vintage clothing. Along with his 9-5 job he runs a small shop on taobao.com. All the garments are collected from Europe, the US, Japan and Korea. “I just want to share my passion for vintage with more people and hope to make more friends through the online shop,” says Gu. All vintage jackets are under RMB200.
Visit www.route66.taobao.com or contact Ms. Tan on 138 1772 1271 for English service
BELT
Vintage-style elasticized feather buckle belt with old time charm. RMB298
Adarsa, Elina Cheung, 54 Xinle Lu
SHOES
1. DOC MARTENS
Oi, oi, oi! These distinctive leather boots make the ultimate punk. Original models are sold second hand for RMB980
Sideways, 144 Xinle Lu
2. NIKE AIR MAX
A classic never dies. This iconic sneaker is now available in hundreds of colors. But beware friends brandishing compass spikes out to burst your bubble, high-school style. RMB790 // Source, 158 Xinle Lu
3. PURPLE NIKE SNEAKER HOO’S
Do you remember Moon Boots? Well they’re back. We never thought we’d see the day; next it will be shell suits, God help us. RMB580
Source 158 Xinle Lu
4. TREFOIL SNEAKERS
If 80s hip hop is your bag, you’re going to dig this version of the original, Stan Smith’s. Yours for RMB820
Source 158 Xinle Lu
5. ZEBRA PATTERN SHOES
Statement-making 70s shoes made with real horse hair, are guaranteed to be a conversation piece down at the disco. Groovy baby. RMB120
Sideways, 144 Xinle Lu
Lolo Love vintage
Hidden off Weihai Lu is this incredible dressing up box of vintage trinkets, hats, toys, furniture and clothing (for sale and rental). We caught up with the owner Lolo to find out more…
Why are you so interested in retro and vintage items?
The beauty and the history of the items attracts me, especially apparel which includes lace accessories from Victorian times and funky 60s-style plastic designs.
How long has it taken you to collect everything?
I started to collect stuff three years ago, and now it has become habit.
What parts of the globe have you traveled to in order to find them?
I’ve been all over Europe, but particularly Italy, I’ve been there much more than other places.
What kind of people visit your shop?
Mainly those involved in the fashion industry and their friends.
Why do you think retro and vintage design is becoming increasingly popular in Shanghai and China?
Lots of big brands are influenced by previous designs, but vintage dress alone is unique. It is turning urban fashion heads; Shanghai is becoming more and more international, so it’s inevitable the trend will grow.
Lolo Love Vintage, Room 288, No.11, 696 Weihai Lu (137 0180 6644)
Shanghai kicks in Hollywood
Originally made in Shanghai in 1959, canvas sneaker favorite Feiyue (‘flying forward’) has now made its way across the continents. Avid French sneaker collector and connoisseur Patrice Bastian discovered them in 2006: “The first time I saw a pair of Feiyue, I was addicted to their vintage charm. I love the timeless design and distinctive character. I even love the fact that they’d been forgotten by most Chinese people. There are very few people wearing Feiyue shoes in China. Those who do are mostly martial arts lovers and blue collar workers.” He soon visited the factory that made Feiyue shoes to negotiate exporting them, but the factory was more focused on shoe accessories for international brands like Converse. They only produced a small quantity of actual shoes for local consumption and it didn’t occur to them to explore the overseas market. Patrice showed the factory his business plan and promised the brand would be widely accepted by Western customers. Digging in his trendy heels lead to the factory finally relenting.
Losing none of its vintage and authentic charm, the French Feiyue has underdone a couple of transformations – thicker soles and better shoelaces – and have since became a hot property among Hollywood A-listers like Orlando Bloom as well as a must-have item for vintage-lovers around the world. Sold for EUR50 abroad, you can still get the original Shanghai retro pumps for RMB28. Hailey Meng
Feiyue at Unit 585-1, Changning Lu