Daily Blog
Thursday, 03 September 2009 03:09
Written by Justin Fischer

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I was amazed by what Markus Bernthaler did behind the bar, dismayed at how that guy who wore the wool hat with a shirt and tie (seriously, who does that?) defiled Bernthaler's legacy and, finally, relieved when Lee Linford restored Tara 57 to its former glory. My heart skipped a beat in July when I heard it was going to close. Then, a loyal patron bought the place and still it stays afloat.

Clearly, the new management realize that if it ain't broke don't fix it. Very little has changed. The cocktail menu has been slightly simplified. Gone are the exhaustive descriptions of each spirit, it's history and how it's made. I think there are only five people in town (and I'm one of them) who find that kind of stuff interesting, anyway. So that's really no big loss. Some of the better cocktails that Linford introduced still remain, like the Pimm's Rangoon. It's a mix of Pimm's, gin, ginger syrup, lemon juice and soda garnished with a ribbon of cucumber. It's absolutely delicious. Prices have gone down ever so slightly, too.  Expect to pay RMB58-78 for most cocktails. It's by no means cheap. But you don't come here for cheap, you come here for quality, and it's definitely still there.

Every drink is made with a slow, deliberate hand and a meticulous eye for detail. If you get a gin sour, for instance, you can bet the lemon juice is squeezed to order, and yes, it does make a difference. But there is one other detail that they have wisely left intact that I doubt most people notice: Ken Huang is still behind the bar. Ken has been the one thread of continuity amid all of the personnel shake-ups at Tara. Over the past two years, I've watched this guy grow from a timid bar hand to a very competent bartender. When I settled my tab last night, for instance, he mixed me a whisky sour shooter made with Bowmore Scotch; it was excellent! This guy does not get the credit he deserves and at this point, he's the reason I keep coming back.

Tara 57

2A/F, 57 Fuxing Lu, between Wulumuqi Lu and Yongfu Lu, across from JZ Club (6431 7027) 复兴路57号2A楼，乌鲁木齐路何永福路的中间，JZ Club 正对面 

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